 | |  | |  | |  | |  | |  | |  | |  | |  |
Adjusting to Loose Players
First, let's put them on a range of hands depending on just how loose (pre flop)
they are. If they have stats like 40/10, we can broadly assume they will raise with
66+, AK, AQ, AJ, KQ, KJ and will limp with 55-22, Ax, Kx, any two face cards,
and suited connectors down to 32s. Perhaps substitute bigger gapped
connectors for the weaker off suit kings.
So right off the bat, if we have position and they raise, we can comfortably re-
raise with AA, KK, QQ, and AK. If they limp and we have a premium hand, we
should adjust and therefore exploit our pre flop advantage by raising more. Now
the mistake of calling our raises becomes more costly for them.
When the flop comes out, pretend one hand ended and another began – with a
different player. Ignore the pre-flop stats of the player – because a passive and
loose player pre flop could be any combination of a different player after the flop.
Now in our “new hand” we need to know that "new" player, of course. The best
way is to have notes on him and his betting lines – but a simple note like
“loose/passive” or any such combo is good. The HUD is another indicator. Add
“flop aggression factor” and “raise flop” to your configuration.
Take this information and apply it your opponents’ habits, combined with their
actions, and apply it to flop texture. You are looking for a player to act out of
character. Most players don’t vary their core styles at all. This may contain
important information.
Unfortunately there is not set Holy Grail I can tell you of how to play post flop.
You will have to think each hand through based on the above information. Here
are some basic assumptions though:
If a very post-flop-aggressive player is check calling on any board (acting
passive), he is likely trapping you with a monster.
If the board comes 3-to-a-flush or is paired, and that passive post flop player is
betting and raising – fold!
See – the players in the above examples are acting out of character.
Let’s break it down a little further….
On two-suited boards, super aggressive players will normally lead bet (bluff),
call your bet in hopes to take it down on the turn (float), or raise your bet while
on a draw (semi-bluff).
On three-suited boards, your opponents have caught less than you think. The
math is about 3% made flush and 15% flush draw. So go ahead and bet to
protect your made hands.
Remember that on boards with no flush draw that an opponent with 2-pair has
ALREADY made his hand – and will bet according to character. On a straight
draw they will play it like their flush draws – they HAVE NOT made their hand
yet. Being aware of this difference will help your reads immensely.
Big card flops are the best for your made TPTK hands. Here is where you hope
that the bad guy has not yet learned that playing dominated garbage is bad.
Over time, his Q7 against your AQ is going to cost him dearly. If a passive
player raises you however, I’m thinking set. Get the idea?
First, let's put them on a range of hands depending on just how loose (pre flop)
they are. If they have stats like 40/10, we can broadly assume they will raise with
66+, AK, AQ, AJ, KQ, KJ and will limp with 55-22, Ax, Kx, any two face cards,
and suited connectors down to 32s. Perhaps substitute bigger gapped
connectors for the weaker off suit kings.
So right off the bat, if we have position and they raise, we can comfortably re-
raise with AA, KK, QQ, and AK. If they limp and we have a premium hand, we
should adjust and therefore exploit our pre flop advantage by raising more. Now
the mistake of calling our raises becomes more costly for them.
When the flop comes out, pretend one hand ended and another began – with a
different player. Ignore the pre-flop stats of the player – because a passive and
loose player pre flop could be any combination of a different player after the flop.
Now in our “new hand” we need to know that "new" player, of course. The best
way is to have notes on him and his betting lines – but a simple note like
“loose/passive” or any such combo is good. The HUD is another indicator. Add
“flop aggression factor” and “raise flop” to your configuration.
Take this information and apply it your opponents’ habits, combined with their
actions, and apply it to flop texture. You are looking for a player to act out of
character. Most players don’t vary their core styles at all. This may contain
important information.
Unfortunately there is not set Holy Grail I can tell you of how to play post flop.
You will have to think each hand through based on the above information. Here
are some basic assumptions though:
If a very post-flop-aggressive player is check calling on any board (acting
passive), he is likely trapping you with a monster.
If the board comes 3-to-a-flush or is paired, and that passive post flop player is
betting and raising – fold!
See – the players in the above examples are acting out of character.
Let’s break it down a little further….
On two-suited boards, super aggressive players will normally lead bet (bluff),
call your bet in hopes to take it down on the turn (float), or raise your bet while
on a draw (semi-bluff).
On three-suited boards, your opponents have caught less than you think. The
math is about 3% made flush and 15% flush draw. So go ahead and bet to
protect your made hands.
Remember that on boards with no flush draw that an opponent with 2-pair has
ALREADY made his hand – and will bet according to character. On a straight
draw they will play it like their flush draws – they HAVE NOT made their hand
yet. Being aware of this difference will help your reads immensely.
Big card flops are the best for your made TPTK hands. Here is where you hope
that the bad guy has not yet learned that playing dominated garbage is bad.
Over time, his Q7 against your AQ is going to cost him dearly. If a passive
player raises you however, I’m thinking set. Get the idea?
| Free No Limit Texas Holdem Strategy Video Instruction Free Poker Strategy Videos to Learn Winning Texas Holdem Free Coaching - Book Reviews Poker Forums - Poker Strategy Articles |